Lloyd Berry – The Bright Midnight, 1100 km’s around Norway
Lloyd Berry, a man who can never sit still, just turned 60 and still with some itches to scratch. Why not scratch that itch with an 1,100km off-road, unsupported, bike-pacing jaunt around Norway. Why not ?
The Bright Midnight Cycle is an 1100 km self-supported bikepacking ‘adventure’ in Norway. Through small villages on gravel roads. It rolls through barren tundra, dramatic fjords and mystical forests, climbing over 20,000 m of the most spectacular and iconic climbs Norway has to offer.
The route starts and finishes in Tolga, a mountain village nestled on the river Glåma and the doorway to the Forollhogna National Park, iconic in its vast tundra. Gravel paths and fast flowing roads follow the sun west towards the glistening tarmac switchbacks of Trollstigen, where the high mountains and the raw nature of Norway loom ever closer with each pedal stroke.
Then onto the spectacular fjordlands, descending steep cliff faces shaped by millenia old glacier journeys. Arriving in the fjord city of Geiranger with painted houses and graphic architecture bordering sea inlets.
Then onto Jotunheim National Park with the highest peaks in Norway to be tackled, then down to the fjords and back up again, you see the pattern! The route takes in part of the famous Mjølkevegen bike route and then back east through Grimsdalen overlooking the Rondane National Park and back to Tolga after 1,100 meters and wait for it, over 20,000 meters of climbing!
Part of the joy in undertaking an adventure like this lies in the art of navigation, where following a map and knowing exactly where you’re headed becomes an integral part of the experience. Lloyd embraces a more traditional approach, meticulously preparing a detailed paper map by hand, marking all the climbs, stops, and key features of the course. Once complete, he captures a photo of the map and sets it as the home screen on his phone. This ensures that even without internet or GPS, he can still access his map and confidently find his way.
All of this of course in Bright Midnight. As the race is so northerly there is about 2 hours of darkness from about 11:30pm which enables all night riding. This was the first challenge presented to Lloyd as he needs his 5 hours sleep a night and knowing that the ultra-competitive participants would be taking advantage of all-night riding, how would he react!
The routes are typically designed to challenge riders with significant geographical obstacles such as high-altitude mountains, rugged paths, and river crossings. Some of the immense ascents, starting from sea level at fjords and rising to escarpments, can stretch on for as long as 20 kilometers. The total elevation gain over the entire course was a staggering 20,000 meters. To put that into perspective for those familiar with Wicklow, the longest climb in the area is the Wicklow Gap, which spans 7 kilometers with a 5% gradient. In contrast, the gravel ascent out of Øvre Oudal is 12 kilometers with an 8% gradient, and the road climb out of Sunndalsøra is a punishing 5 kilometers at a 14% gradient. When you see switchbacks appear on your Garmin, you know what lies ahead
Sounds pretty straight forward, but was it ? Here’s how it went. Oh – and Lloyd had 6.5 days to get it done, no sweat !
Day 1 – Tolga to Sundalsora (225km/2,300 meters)
The first half of the day began with smooth, flat champagne gravel, offering a tranquil and pleasant start. However, this calm was soon disrupted by a knee-deep river crossing, which seamlessly transitioned into a demanding hike-a-bike section. As Lloyd ascended into the highlands, the skies opened up, and rain began to fall steadily, persisting for the rest of the day. The descent back to sea level was treacherous—a high-speed gravel road, now muddy and slick with dirt, leading into Opdal where he paused for a burger.
Soaked and chilled to the bone, Lloyd made the decision to book a hotel for the night. Unfortunately, an unexpected hike-a-bike segment delayed his arrival, and he didn’t reach the hotel until 11 PM. By then, everything was closed, leaving him with little to eat. The next morning, he rose at 5 AM to resume cycling, choosing to forego breakfast to make an early start.
Strava Link : https://www.strava.com/activities/11889734414
Day 2 – Sundalsora to Lesja (281 km/4,518 meters)
Lloyd set out in damp gear, his clothes not having dried properly overnight. The day began with a challenging 10% climb from sea level up to a plateau, dominated by rugged gravel paths. He navigated through a gravel tunnel that twisted back on itself, an eerie experience without any lights. A brief stop in Vistdal to purchase provisions proved unfruitful, as his appetite had all but disappeared.
Continuing onward, Lloyd found a moment of solace in Åndalsnes, where he enjoyed a cup of coffee and a sandwich. Later, in Bjorli, he picked up a takeaway burger and supplies for dinner. However, his limited knowledge of Norwegian led to a misunderstanding with a place name, resulting in an additional 30 kilometers of cycling to reach the log cabin he had booked. The cabin, devoid of water and electricity, offered little comfort, so dinner consisted of a cold burger. Yet, the dry and comfortable bed was a welcome relief after such a taxing day.
Strava Link : https://www.strava.com/activities/11897000729
Day 3 – Lesja to Øvre Årdal (177 km/3,248 meters)
he day commenced with yet another formidable 10% gravel climb, setting the stage for the challenges ahead. By 9:00 AM, Lloyd had reached Vågåmo, where he treated himself to a much-needed coffee and breakfast, followed by a swift resupply at the local shop. Undeterred, he continued his ascent towards the glacier at Sognefjellshytta—a climb of epic proportions. At the summit, Lloyd paused at the tourist center, savoring five bowls of onion soup, his first substantial meal in days.
The climb had been mercifully dry, but the descent back into the fjord at Øvre Årdal was a grueling 20 kilometers through relentless rain. Upon arrival, Lloyd was disheartened to find that no accommodation was available in town. With another grueling 20-kilometer gravel climb out of the fjord ahead, pushing on was not an option. Instead, he joined a group of ten others, and they made do by sleeping on the local football pitch. Before retiring for the night, the group gathered at an Italian restaurant for a hearty meal—a fitting conclusion to a demanding day, even if their accommodations were far from luxurious.
Strava Link : https://www.strava.com/activities/11903576206
Day 4 – Øvre Årdal to Vagamo (189 km / 3,633 meters)
The day began early with a demanding ascent through gravel hairpin bends as Lloyd climbed out of the fjord. This was soon followed by yet another steep gravel climb, which eventually brought him to Beitostølen, a winter ski resort. There, he indulged in a hearty lunch—a bowl of soup, sausage with sauerkraut, and a well-deserved ice cream for dessert. The accommodating staff even allowed him to put his feet up and take a much-needed nap.
Later, Lloyd secured the only available hotel in Vågå. Though the rate was steep, it was worth every penny. He arrived at 7:00 PM, just in time for a proper meal at the hotel restaurant, accompanied by a refreshing cold beer. His good friend Greg Clarke was messaging him on WhatsApp, urging him to push through the night—a well-meaning but amusing suggestion, as there was no chance of that happening!
Strava Link : https://www.strava.com/activities/11912205891
Day 5 – Vagamo to Tolga (220 km / 3,683 meters)
The hotel thoughtfully packed Lloyd a breakfast for his early 4:00 AM start. With home now within sight, this day proved to be the easiest yet, with minimal climbing. He made his way to Alvdal, where he enjoyed a delicious Thai curry before continuing on to the finish line at Tolga. The route led him through a national park, featuring a beautiful stretch of gravel reminiscent of the roads in Wicklow.
A few of the old friends Lloyd had met during their impromptu evening at the football pitch in Øvre Årdal decided to get competitive, and what began as a casual ride quickly escalated into a spirited race among the veterans at the back. Lloyd believed he had crossed the finish line first, but as it turned out, someone had risen at 2:00 AM to claim victory ahead of him. Such are the race tactics in the world of long-distance bikepacking!
Strava Link : https://www.strava.com/activities/11920441484
So how did Lloyd do ?
Lloyd reached Tolga in 4.5 days, exactly as he had planned. His support crew—Julienne, his wife—had clear instructions to be there, so reaching the finish line was a must. He finished 44th out of 108 participants. Below are the abridged results:
Results:
Solo Starters: 108
Did Not Finish (DNF): 22
Finishers: 86
Lloyd’s Position: 44th
Overall Time:
1st Place: 56 hours
1st Woman (4th Overall): 60 hours
Lloyd: 104 hours
Riding Speed:
1st Place: 20 km/h
Lloyd: 16 km/h
Average Speed (Including Resting):
1st Place: 20 km/h
Lloyd: 11 km/h
Daily Average Distance:
1st Place: 456 km
Lloyd: 255 km
When comparing Lloyd’s time to that of the winner, it’s evident that he cycles only marginally slower. However, unlike the frontrunners, Lloyd stops for 5 to 9 hours each night to sleep, while the winners, like Alex McCormac, who stopped for just 2 hours and completed the race in 56 hours, rarely pause at all. It seems almost superhuman, but these top competitors are professionals, rigorously trained to ride non-stop with minimal sleep.
Given the grueling nature of cycling for 4.5 hours or more with minimal rest and intense physical exertion, the need for adequate sleep becomes clear. Lloyd found himself drifting off on the bike on several occasions. To address this, he discovered that when fatigue sets in, it’s crucial to stop immediately, find a dry, insect-free spot, and take a brief power nap. Even just a few minutes of rest can recharge the mind and restore focus.
Not so bad for a man just turned 60 !
Well whats next ?? Apparently plans are afoot for Lloyd and Julienne to head to Chile next year to do the Gravel Del Fugo in Patagonia in April.
Well done Lloyd !
